What's SWF SWF files are the containers for Flash animation. Shock Wave Format (SWF) is meant for storing vector graphics and animated videos. The most common usage is for Flash animation content on the websites that can be opened with the help of Flash plugin, or other similar Windows utility.

As you can see, SWF files are easy to open on a Windows computer, however it is not as easy when it comes to playing them on a Mac. You will either need a SWF player or convert SWF files to a different format. Install SWF player Mac You can SWF player for Mac from this webpage and easily install it as any other Mac app. Choose the animation to watch You have the following options to add SWF files to Mac SWF player:.

Drag SWF files onto the opened app or onto its Dock icon;. Select 'File' from SWF player menu and click 'Open';. Right-click the animation in Finder - Open with - Elmedia Player.

Watch SWF animation and more You can watch SWF movies on Mac for free with SWF player! You can actually watch various video file formats with just one app - Elmedia Player for Mac! Elmedia Player is also offered in PRO version that you can get for more advanced possibilities. With Elmedia Player PRO you get extensive support of AirPlay.

You can also download your favorite videos from Internet and straight to your hard drive, including the external resources used by SWF animation you are downloading.

Flash Converter Pro Mac Flash Converter Pro For Mac

In this tutorial, I'm going to show you how to make a cheap controller or converter using a Pro Micro. This tutorial will specifically talk about using it for Pro Micro for an AT-style 180-degree DIN5 so that I can remap keys on my Model F, but it should be applicable for other uses. They're cheap - you can get them for less than €3 €5 (price increase ), whereas Teensies are upwards of about €15 or above. They have enough pins for a converter - Soarer's converter only requires four pins, and the Pro Micro has all of the required ones. It's more difficult to flash: you need to short pins manually, and use a command-line tool to flash hex files.

No Teensy loader here. It has fewer pins than a Teensy. For something small like a Soarer Converter, or maybe a hand-wired numpad or a heavily optimised PCB, that's fine.

However, if you're hand-wiring a larger board, I'd recommend a board with more pins so that you don't have to worry about wiring a complicated unintuitive physical layout. Disclaimer: This guide should be applicable to both GNU/Linux and Mac OS X. I wouldn't know where to start figuring some of this stuff out on Windows, but if there's demand then I'll try. I don't have any devices that run Mac OS X, so if anything is incorrect then please let me know and I'll see if I can get them fixed. Step 1: Get a Pro Micro clone This part is easy, but takes a lot of time.

You can get them on for about €6 shipped, and also on at a slightly lower price. They will both take a long time to arrive, with the eBay link coming from Hong Kong and the BangGood one coming from China. Mine took about 3-4 weeks from eBay.

Step 2: Flash the firmware We're going to assume that you already have a.hex file called firmware.hex that you want to flash on to your Pro Micro. In order to flash the device, you need to figure out which 'serial port' your device is attached to. If you've previously flashed your Pro Micro, instead of going straight into bootloader mode it will try to run the code that you uploaded to it. To go into bootloader mode, you need to quickly connect the GND + RST pins twice, just as the device powers on. Next, plug in your device and re-run the command, the same as before: Code: ls /dev/tty.

There should be one more output device than was seen previously. For me, it's /dev/ttyACM0. To flash the device, you need to have AVRdude installed. On Linux, you can do this with your normal package manager. On Mac OS, I've heard from that you need to install.

Once it's installed, confirm that it works by just running avrdude on the command-line. It should throw some errors. If so, it works.

Once you have AVRdude set up, navigate to the directory with your.hex file in it. Then, run the following: Code: avrdude -p atmega32u4 -P YOURSERIALPORT -c avr109 -U flash:w:filename.hex Of course, replace YOURSERIALPORT with your serial port's device name, and filename.hex with the appropriate filename. For me, this line looks like this: Code: avrdude -p atmega32u4 -P /dev/ttyACM0 -c avr109 -U flash:w:Soarerat2usbv1.12atmega32u4.hex If it says 'device not in sync' or similar, your device is no longer in bootloader mode. Unplug it, and get it back into bootloader mode like you did in the previous step, and try again. ## Step 3: Figuring out pinouts and wiring Most guides for firmware comes with Teensy-style pinouts: Thankfully, Soarer was good enough to share a pinout diagram for the Pro Micro which matches what he uses in his own documentation: With both of these, it's easy to go between Teensy and Pro Micro pinouts for other guides that are Teensy-specific.

From the kbdbabel.org diagram of an AT/PS2 connector, we can get started with wiring the board: Bearing in mind that you'll need to flip the orientation of the pins when wiring to the back of the socket, here are the corresponding pins on the Pro Micro for a basic DIN5/PS2 converter: Here's the (jury-rigged) end result.and it works! Aaaaah, my wonderfully chunky Model F. Acknowledgements and thanks: - Soarer for his firmware, of course, and also the Pro Micro pinout diagrams, and help on IRC with bootloader mode on the Pro Micro.

Muirium for pointing out CrossPack on Mac OS X. I actually don't know of any differences. The diagram above is Soarer's, whereas mine is blue. I suppose that there are many clones floating around. What you've described sounds like the right board.

The only thing to be careful about is to avoid buying a 'Pro Mini' or similarly-named boards (like I mistakenly put in the OP before chzel pointed out my mistake) - they've got a 328 and not a 32U4, so (as far as I know) they can't do USB HID. You're very welcome for the guide! I'm glad that some people are finding it useful. Hypersphere wrote:@scottc: Are there any differences in specs corresponding to the color of the board? Your illustration shows a red board, whereas the ones I've seen are blue. We want the ATmega32U4 5V/16MHz variety, correct?

Thanks also for your very helpful guide! I can jump in on this. I think the Sparkfun version uses a red PCB, whereas most of the low cost modules on eBay tend to be green or blue.

The 5V module runs twice as fast, but will also use a little more power which is not an issue if powered by USB. For a keyboard, if your only connecting to switches and LEDs you could probably use either - I went with the 5V version as I can interface to a PS/2 touchpad without needing a voltage translator. If you are connecting to components with 3.3V voltage levels then the corresponding ProMicro would be simpler. You need access to the reset pin periodically, but in general I can do software updates without pressing the reset first.

There are two logical connections via USB - the keyboard and a serial communication link which is used to reset the module. If anyone knows of a low cost source of ProMicro modules I'd be interested - the price seems to have increased significantly over the last few months ($4 to $8).

Hypersphere wrote:@scottc: Are there any differences in specs corresponding to the color of the board? Your illustration shows a red board, whereas the ones I've seen are blue. We want the ATmega32U4 5V/16MHz variety, correct? Thanks also for your very helpful guide!

I can jump in on this. I think the Sparkfun version uses a red PCB, whereas most of the low cost modules on eBay tend to be green or blue.

The 5V module runs twice as fast, but will also use a little more power which is not an issue if powered by USB. For a keyboard, if your only connecting to switches and LEDs you could probably use either - I went with the 5V version as I can interface to a PS/2 touchpad without needing a voltage translator.

If you are connecting to components with 3.3V voltage levels then the corresponding ProMicro would be simpler. You need access to the reset pin periodically, but in general I can do software updates without pressing the reset first. There are two logical connections via USB - the keyboard and a serial communication link which is used to reset the module. If anyone knows of a low cost source of ProMicro modules I'd be interested - the price seems to have increased significantly over the last few months ($4 to $8). Thanks for the additional insights. I wonder if it might be possible to negotiate a reduced unit price by contacting the seller (link from eBay or AliExpress) and buying larger lots? Scottc:Thanks for the clarification, PJE!

The cost thing struck me too. I got mine for €3.50 shipped a few months ago, but now they're significantly more expensive. The cheapest I've found them was on aliexpress, where you can get small discounts for bulk orders. For a set of 5 here, it's €21 including slow free shipping: The rising cost could be attributed to many factors, possibly even including improvements. Speaking of improvements or revisions, this can be rather confusing. For example, some sellers make the following note: 'This latest revision corrects the silk error from the last version of the board so that pin 14 is correctly labeled. We've also added a PTC fuse and diode protection to the power circuit and corrected the RX and TX LED circuit.'

It would be nice if there were revision numbers included with the part number, but buyers might want to look at various listings and choose the one that appears to have the latest revisions. Edit: I've noticed that some sellers have a note saying 'Supported under Arduino IDE v', where the version number can vary from 1.01 to 1.05. Does this matter? Should we be looking for v1.05? Can you give a link to the firmware file? This is all new for me, but I may give this a try. Also, as I am all new to this, can someone give me a list of all the components that I will need?

It looks like: 1. Female DIN plug 2. Mini USB cable 17 Aug 2014, 02:50 ShawnMeg Posts: 35 Joined: 14 Jun 2014, 04:03 Location: Classified Main keyboard: IBM Model F122, AEK Orange ALPS click modded Main mouse: Logitech Marathon Mouse Favorite switch: Model F Capacitive Buckling Spring DT Pro Member: -. ShawnMeg:Can you give a link to the firmware file? This is all new for me, but I may give this a try.

Also, as I am all new to this, can someone give me a list of all the components that I will need? It looks like: 1. Female DIN plug 2.

Mini USB cable point 4 is micro USB cable, not mini. And for point 2, don't buy them, just strip them from a cable you don't use anymore (any usb cable wil have 4 cables inside, but you could use old IDE cables or phone cables aswell). I've used linux a little bit, and have to figure out how to install avrdude.

Does anyone know if it's in the Ubuntu Software Center or some other easy way to install it? 17 Aug 2014, 04:58 ShawnMeg Posts: 35 Joined: 14 Jun 2014, 04:03 Location: Classified Main keyboard: IBM Model F122, AEK Orange ALPS click modded Main mouse: Logitech Marathon Mouse Favorite switch: Model F Capacitive Buckling Spring DT Pro Member: -.